Even with smartphones showing the time everywhere, watches remain popular around the world. For many people, a watch is a practical tool; for others, it is a style statement, a piece of engineering to admire or a family heirloom passed down through generations. Its history reflects centuries of science, craftsmanship and changes in how people live and work.
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Measuring time before watches
People have measured time for thousands of years. Ancient civilizations used:
- Sundials: which use the shadow of the sun to indicate the hour.
- Water clocks: which measure time by the flow of water.
- Candles and hourglasses: which measure intervals of time.
These methods worked, but they depended on daylight, weather or constant attention.
Mechanical clocks
Mechanical clocks appeared in Europe around the 13th and 14th centuries, often in church towers and public buildings. They used weights and a mechanism called an escapement to regulate movement. In the 17th century, Dutch scientist Christiaan Huygens developed the pendulum clock, which dramatically improved accuracy.
The first portable watches
In the early 16th century, craftsmen in Europe, including Peter Henlein of Nuremberg, created small spring-driven clocks that could be carried. These evolved into pocket watches, which became symbols of status and punctuality.
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The development of the balance spring in the 17th century greatly improved the accuracy of portable watches. In the 18th century, marine chronometers allowed sailors to determine their longitude at sea, a major advance in navigation.
The rise of the wristwatch
For centuries, men mainly carried pocket watches, while early wristwatches were often seen as jewelry for women. That began to change in the early 20th century:
- In 1904, Louis Cartier designed a wristwatch for Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont, who needed to check the time while flying without letting go of the controls.
- During World War I, soldiers found wristwatches much more practical than pocket watches, helping make them popular among men.
- Over the following decades, innovations such as water resistance and automatic winding made wristwatches more reliable.
The quartz revolution
In 1969, Seiko launched the Astron, the first quartz wristwatch sold to the public. Quartz watches use a battery to make a small quartz crystal vibrate at a very precise frequency, which an electronic circuit converts into regular pulses. They are much more accurate than typical mechanical watches and cheaper to produce.
This led to a crisis in the traditional Swiss watch industry in the 1970s and 1980s, often called the "quartz crisis." The industry recovered with new strategies, including the launch of the affordable, colorful Swatch in 1983 and a renewed focus on luxury mechanical watches as objects of craftsmanship.
How the main types of watches work
Manual mechanical
A spring, called the mainspring, stores energy when the wearer winds the crown. The energy is released gradually through a series of gears, regulated by the balance wheel and escapement.
Automatic
An automatic watch is mechanical but includes a rotor that turns with the movement of the wrist, winding the mainspring automatically. If not worn, it eventually stops.
Quartz
Battery-powered and very accurate, quartz watches usually need only battery changes and occasional maintenance.
Solar and kinetic
Some quartz watches recharge with light or with the movement of the wrist, reducing battery replacements.
Smartwatch
A small computer on the wrist that shows notifications, tracks physical activity, monitors heart rate and sleep, and runs apps. The Apple Watch, launched in 2015, helped popularize the category, and many other brands offer similar devices.
Watch complications
In watchmaking, a "complication" is any function beyond telling hours, minutes and seconds. Examples:
- Date: shows the day of the month.
- Chronograph: a stopwatch function.
- GMT or dual time: shows a second time zone.
- Moon phase: shows the phases of the moon.
- Perpetual calendar: adjusts automatically for months of different lengths and leap years.
How to choose a watch
- Purpose: daily use, sports, diving, formal occasions or health tracking.
- Movement: mechanical for craftsmanship, quartz for accuracy and low maintenance, smart for connectivity.
- Water resistance: check the rating if you plan to swim or dive, and remember that ratings in meters don't mean you can dive to that depth.
- Size and comfort: the case should fit your wrist proportionally.
- Readability: clear hands and markers make the watch easier to use.
- Budget: good watches exist at many price levels.
- Maintenance: mechanical watches need periodic servicing; quartz watches need battery changes.
Caring for your watch
- Follow the manufacturer's service recommendations.
- Avoid strong magnetic fields, which can affect mechanical watches.
- Avoid extreme temperatures and impacts.
- Don't press buttons or turn the crown underwater unless the watch is designed for it.
- Check water resistance periodically, especially after battery changes.
- Clean the strap and case regularly.
Famous watchmaking regions
Switzerland, especially the Jura region and cities such as Geneva, is the most famous center of traditional watchmaking, with a history going back to the 16th century. In 2020, the craftsmanship of mechanical watchmaking in the Swiss and French Jura Arc was added to UNESCO's list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Japan became a leader in quartz technology and affordable reliable watches, while Germany, especially the town of Glashütte, is known for fine mechanical watches.
Watches as heirlooms and investments
Many families pass watches from generation to generation, giving them sentimental value. Some models from famous brands are also collected and can hold or increase their value, but buying watches as financial investments involves risk and requires knowledge.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between quartz and automatic watches?
Quartz watches are powered by a battery and a quartz crystal. Automatic watches are mechanical and wind themselves with wrist movement.
Who invented the wristwatch?
There is no single inventor. Early models existed in the 19th century, and the Cartier watch made for Santos-Dumont in 1904 is one of the most famous early men's wristwatches.
What is a watch complication?
Any function beyond telling the time, such as a date display, chronograph or moon phase.
How often should a mechanical watch be serviced?
It depends on the manufacturer, but many recommend service every few years.
What was the first quartz wristwatch?
The Seiko Astron, launched in 1969.
Are smartwatches accurate for health tracking?
They are useful for general tracking, but they don't replace medical devices or professional evaluation.
Conclusion
The watch has evolved from sundials and tower clocks to mechanical masterpieces and smart devices. Whether you prefer tradition, precision or technology, a watch remains much more than a simple accessory: it is a piece of history on your wrist.